Pt Reyes is definitely in my top 10 of favorite places, though I'll admit my top 10 can be rather expansive as I add to it! When it comes to favorite places I don't want to be limited.
I've been enjoying Pt Reyes for more than 20 years, and it is no longer a well kept secret, as the paths I walk are now 3-4x as wide as they were before, and parking can be challenging if you don't arrive before mid-morning. The area has something for everyone - you can take a challenging day hike, saunter around on a beach, or just simply drive the roads and enjoy the sights.
This is an example of why I so love to go here:
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| Photo credit: Anne Schnedl |
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| Photo credit: Anne Schnedl |
The Point Reyes area is also part of the National Park System (its official name is Point Reyes National Seashore). Tomales Bay State Park is in this same area, though it is not part of Pt Reyes. I have never visited Tomales Bay SP, though I have driven past its entrance countless times as it is off of Pierce Point Road which I use to reach several of my favorite haunts in the Pt Reyes area. Currently (as of Dec 2014) there is an $8/day parking fee for Tomales Bay SP. Most parking in Pt Reyes is free, but it is best to arrive early as the area's increasing popularity means available parking fills up quickly.
Weather can vary from sunny to foggy, and it tends to be windy. It's best to dress in layers and then peel off outerware if necessary for comfort. The SF Bay Area is known for micro-climates and Pt Reyes is no exception -- you may start somewhere warm and sunny and end up somewhere cool and foggy. Wear sturdy closed toe shoes if you plan to hike a trail or easy on/easy off lighter footware if you intend to comb the beach. Or bring both and have them available in the trunk so you can change plans at the spur of the moment.
So how do you get there? That's actually (almost) half the fun! Since it is off the beaten path the drive to get there takes some time, but is lovely, so I've never felt the time was wasted.
These directions are for those coming from San Francisco or the East Bay:
Cross the Golden Gate Bridge or Richmond Bridge and take
Hwy 101 North
Exit Lucas Valley Road, turn left
... enjoy the view along the way ...
Right onto Nicasio Valley Road
... enjoy the view along the way ...
Left onto Point Reyes-Petaluma Road
... enjoy the view along the way ... (Nicasio Reservoir to your left)
Right at stop sign to continue on Point Reyes-Petaluma Road
(you'll cross a colorful painted bridge)
Left at stop sign onto the Shoreline Hwy (Hwy 1)
In about 1 mile you'll see the main drag of lovely downtown
Point Reyes Station (the town, not the national park)
As you turn left onto the main road (there's a Wells Fargo on the corner, turn there), you will quickly come to The Bovine Bakery. Like many places in the SF Bay Area driving here is "cruising for a caloric bruising"! It is here you must stop in order acquire provisions should you begin to feel peckish as you explore the area. Lots of lovely noshes and good coffee to be had - the difficult part is choosing! There are mugs for locals (only) lining the walls, obviously please leave them alone unless you are one!
Once you have procured victuals for your journey continue straight, then turn right at the end of the street - go about 1/4 of a mile then turn right onto Sir Francis Drake Boulevard after crossing the bridge. If this is your first visit it might be worth your while to make your first stop at the Bear Valley Visitor Center (turn left onto Bear Valley Road about 1 mile after turning onto Sir Francis Drake ... the BV Visitor Center will be on the right about 2 miles after making the turn onto Bear Valley Road). Getting a paper map here is not a bad idea as cell service can be spotty in various places in Point Reyes. The Bear Valley Visitor Center has room to park horse trailers and is also the starting point for **many** trails that dot the southern portion of the Inverness Ridge. Yes, there are places for overnight camping - if you want more information about this you should check the website and/or call for details as I have never done this.
The part of Pt Reyes that is most beloved to me is the Pierce Point Ranch area. This is also where you can access McClure's Beach. I took the trail down to McClure's beach once and don't plan to do that again - as beaches go I did not find it all that spectacular up close and it is not, in my opinion, meant for lounging. The trail down is fairly steep and only seems more steep on the way back up! Funny how that is. The McClure's beach trailhead does offer additional parking for the Pierce Point Ranch area as well as a bathroom. There are not many in the area so this is a definite plus.
Directions to Pierce Point Ranch:
Once on Sir Frances Drake Blvd (turn left off of Bear Valley Road if coming from the visitor's center), continue on for several miles, enjoying the scenery as you go - you'll get glimpses of Tomales Bay to your right. Veer right onto Pierce Point Road. At this point just follow the road until you dead end at the Pierce Point Ranch.
The Pierce Point Ranch was a dairy farm established in the 1860's that operated until 1973. As you drive around Point Reyes NS you'll go through several working dairy farms - they are identified by letters.
It is here that you can enjoy many miles of hiking along the cliffs with glorious views of the NoCal coastline. Along the way you can close your eyes and feast on the Symphony of the Sea as the waves crash along the shore - it's one of the most relaxing clamors I have ever heard, a tranquil cacophony. If you like you can explore the remains of the ranch before you take to the trail - I would not spend a great deal of time there as the buildings have not been restored.
Where to begin is self-explanatory once you arrive and have parked your car. Use the port-a-potties at the McClure's Beach parking area before you leave as there are no bathroom facilities on any part of the trail (and precious little cover should you be so desperate before returning). Take water and sunscreen, plus any nibblies you have managed not to gnosh on the way. The trail is part of the Tule Elk Reserve and you'll likely see some as you go along the trail. As far as difficulty goes the trail varies from easy to moderate in difficulty, and it is about 10 miles round trip (from the ranch to the Tomales Bluff and back). I've never walked the entire trail, but some day I hope to do so.
If you're in the mood simply to enjoy the scenery as you drive, consider taking Mount Vision Road - it's a 1 1/2 lane road of several miles with multiple switchbacks that dead ends at a trailhead (I have not ever hiked any portion of it, just driven to the end of the road). There are many lovely vista's along the way. To get there continue on Sir Frances Drake Blvd and veer left rather than turning onto Pierce Point Road. The left turn onto Mount Vision Road is about 1 mile after passing Pierce Point Road.
If you continue on Sir Francis Drake (past Mt Vision Road) you will eventually arrive at the Point Reyes Lighthouse. As of Dec 2014 it is only open Fri - Mon (closed Tue - Thur); It's been many years since I have been there, but I remember there are a LOT of steps! There is a visitor's center, and a bathroom.
If you are in the mood for a lovely fairly easy walk then take a trip to the Abbott's Lagoon area. It's approximately 3 miles round trip, all flat. The turn out and parking area for this brief hike is well marked and on the left as you drive along Pierce Point Road. There is a bathroom located here as well.
If you want to feel sand between your toes I would suggest Kehoe Beach - easier access than McClure's beach (no steep trail, just a short path from the road), though the parking for this stop is more limited than others and it is not as well marked as some spots in the park. It has been several years since I have used this to access the beach, though I recall that the beach is much larger than the McClure's Beach area. There is a bathroom here as well.
The Point Reyes NS is vast and there is far more to explore - and that is part of why I continue to return. Perhaps we'll see each other there some day!
TTFN!
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TTFN!
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